TheEffectsLab.com Forum Index






     

If you are not currently a registered member, please read the instructions
for membership and activation at the top of the Laboratory section. Thank you.




It is currently Thu Sep 03, 2015 6:48 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 4:21 pm 
Offline
Lab rat

Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 5:45 pm
Posts: 3
Location: Amsterdam
Hello Fx-labsters,

Does anyone know if it is possible to mix anything through the oil based clay to make it oily and flexy again.(wax or oil?) After standing on the shelf for years and after heating it in a oven (pouring) it has become verry brittle and dry.

Thanks,
Bas


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:50 pm 
Offline
Acolyte

Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:53 pm
Posts: 117
Location: www.tristanschane.com
a foundry I used to do some pieces for used to make/recycle their own clay, adding vaseline in to the mix. May work. Test a small sample, maybe.

T

_________________
www.TristanSchane.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:53 pm 
Offline
Master mutant-wrangler

Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:07 am
Posts: 641
you can try melting it down and adding some wax in as you melt it to melt down with it, keep stiring it around, and even add a bit of fresh clay as well.
you can keep recyling your clay this way.
simetimes you have to sift through it (while liquid) evey so often.

_________________
-Vincent
www.VVDFX.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 10:28 pm 
Offline
Assistant mutant-wrangler
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 11:08 am
Posts: 365
Location: LaLaLand
I used to make my own plasticine from just three ingredients: wax, Vaseline and powder.

The wax was the base, or body, of the plasticine. The Vaseline was used to adjust the hardness/softness of the plasticine. The powder was used to adjust the stickiness of the plasticine (really sticky and soft to make a good nose putty.....medium-stiff and non-sticky for a decent sculpting plasticine.....hard and stiff for a good carving plasticine).

Keeping in mind what the different ingredients do, you can melt down your plasticine and add what is needed to make it viable again (though maybe not as good as the original).


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: As well
PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 10:42 pm 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:20 pm
Posts: 3757
Location: Central Kentucky
Some time ago - someone - I can't remember who, posted the ingredients for making your own wax based clay as well from dry clay powder and microcrystaline wax plus other ingredients. The "liquid" part was oil (automotive??) and other additives. Here are those formulas.......

Wax Formula

(1.)
10 lbs microcrystalline wax
1/2 gallon 10wt oil
1 lb automotive grease
25 pounds clay powder

(2.)
2 parts by weight mineral oil
1 part petroleum jelly
2 parts paraffin wax
10 parts dry clay powder (salt lick ball clay)

This might give you some idea of what it would take to reconstitute a batch of dried clay...or at least give you some added ideas in addition to the Vaseline - which is the quickest and likely the best idea.

FXMan


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:54 pm 
Offline
Assistant mutant-wrangler
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 11:08 am
Posts: 365
Location: LaLaLand
I don't recommend using ball clay or clay powder. It works great for the first time you use it, but if you ever reheat and remelt the plasticine it get stiffer and stiffer. Why? What happens when you heat clay? It hardens. I learned this the hard way and tossed many, many pounds of plasticine away. This is why I only use talc now.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 8:22 am 
Offline
Doctor of cryptozoology
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 9:36 am
Posts: 1268
Location: Orlando Fl/Salt Lake City Ut
A good friend of mine melts down dried clay (roma or chavant) with a little car engine oil and stirs it through. I tried it and it worked well. Be careful not to add too much though. Hope this helps :)

_________________
Josh
Toxic Image Studios
www.toxicimage.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:35 pm 
Offline
Acolyte

Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:48 pm
Posts: 97
I recently bought a case of sulfur-free Roma from Sculpture House in NYCity and it dreid out! I have never seen this happen before with oil-based clay. I'm able to make it maleable again by brushing turpentine on it, but I have been considering kneading some sort of oil into it again, like cooking oil or Pam or something.
Scott


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:19 am 
Offline
Lab rat

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 4:02 pm
Posts: 31
Location: DIRTY JERSEY
yes Fxman is correct. the recipe for oil clay he posted works. i too have seen that but i cant remember where. Sometimes my clay will get tough like drying WED clay so i put a thick glob of vaseline brand petrolleum jelly on my hands (use gloves) and wrok it into the clay. make sure you use gloves because it can take forever to get the vasline off your hands. i would suggest after every other time you mold a mask you re-oil the clay. it works for me and i use monstermakers oil clay.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Vaseline
PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 2:25 pm 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:20 pm
Posts: 3757
Location: Central Kentucky
[quote="kojaxZERO"]yes Fxman is correct. the recipe for oil clay he posted works. I put a thick glob of vaseline brand petrolleum jelly on my hands (use gloves) and wrok it into the clay. make sure you use gloves because it can take forever to get the vasline off your hands.quote]

HOWEVER one of the benefits (and I guess you'd call it that) is that using Vaseline and getting it ON your hands without the gloves, is that it REALLY DOES do wonders for your skin. If you use DAWN DISH DETERGENT to get the majority off of your hands, between the oil based clay and the Vaseline, it makes your hands really quite smooth and dry-skin-free. My hands are rough as hell and anytime I work with Roma (just finished some preosthetic sculpts for a client in NYC) man are my hands nice and smooth. Gets rid of a lot of dead skin and remoisturizes my hands nicely. But that's short-lived with me anyway because my hands are so very dry it doesn't take but a few days after using oil based clay that they're right back like they were....dry and chapped. I'd have to keep my hands dipped in lotion to keep them from chapping. So I don't worry about it until (like in the Winter) they have this tendency to want to crack every now and again and THAT is a little painful.

Just a thought. Anyway, Vaseline will help a lot - that's mostly what I do as well when using clay that's been "used" a lot and dried out significantly from the heat of curing UC30 during molding processes. Over time the oil base diminishes if you reuse the clay a lot (and I do). Plus I have probably about 8 - 10 pounds in 2 lb. bricks that are getting a little crusty from age. Need to get that out and into a pan and melt it down and add in something to reconstitute it a bit. As for using PAM or cooking OIL don't do it. Those will go moldy over short time since they're not the type of oil that wouldn't go bad. Been there, done that, brushed away the gray-green fuzz too many times. :wink:

FXMan


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: oil clay
PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 6:18 pm 
Offline
Acolyte

Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:43 am
Posts: 196
There were formuli for oil clays in a makeup book by Vlastimil Boublic (sp?).

Base:
Clay 67 parts, rubber maker's sulphur 33 parts
OR
Clay 55 parts, sulphur 33 parts, lithopone 20 parts

There were several vehicles, the simplest was just No. 2 Petroleum. Palm oil, japan wax, lanolin and glycerine were involved in the others. The ratio of base to vehicle was 3:1.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: re-oiling your clay
PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 7:16 am 
You can also use plain old vegetable oil -- again, not too much. I'd avoid the toxic stuff like motor oil, too much exposure can cause cancer. Why risk it?

And if you do use too much, spread the clay thinly over some wax paper, let it cool and dust it with talcum powder. Work it in as you need to.


Top
  
 
 Post subject: Mineral Oil
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:15 pm 
Offline
Doctor of cryptozoology
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:33 am
Posts: 939
Location: Minnesota, USA
A small amount of mineral oil does a bang up job of softening oil based clays as does petroleum jelly (Vasoline). Don't add parafin wax, it makes the clay brittle and prone to cracks when molded by hand, unless the clay is very quite warm. Use a softer grade of microcrystaline wax (not victory brown unless you want a really stiff clay).

Here's a weird recipe for something similar to WED:

1 part glycerine
1 part KY jelly
Powdered ball clay to desired texture
Talc (optional) to aid smoothness

Mix well and place in sealed plastic bag for 48 hours. Knead by hand adding talc as needed to achieve desired feel.

Wrap in plastic wrap and store in a plastic bag in a cool dry location.

_________________
Brain droppings from the mind of
MedFX


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
 
jester lester thefxlab theeffectslab the fx lab forum the effects lab forum sfxlab fxlab effectslab